The word that describes the best what I have seen these days in Cuba is fear. People are afraid of the State in ways we cannot even imagine. I have been talking all the time to artists, curators, intellectuals, people from the cinema, and also to normal taxi drivers, to the old granny and her daughter who are illegally hosting me, and everybody is very afraid.
The fridges are empty, except for water and beer. On the stoves, boiling water all the time: to drink, to take a bath. I am rapidly learning experience with the Cuban bath: boil some water, put more fresh water in it, and there you go!
Being here is a trip to the past, I can more or less imagine the life of my ancestors. The conditions are getting worse, everybody agrees, since Raul Castro belongs to the military.
Am posting this from the hotel Habana Libre, who once belonged to the Hilton Hotels, but was taken by the Revolution. This has been the most expensive internet connection ever, and it is restricted (although cache services by Google are always helpful).